Rachel Roddy’s recipe for braised goat with rosemary and potatoes | A kitchen in Rome

Of the many Italian recipes for goat, this stew is perhaps the most Roman in approach, braised with chillies, wine, and waxy potatoes

Tracking ingredients through the Newton & Compton regional recipe series makes me feel like Julia Donaldson’s detective dog Nell. Although, rather than investigating who stole the library books, the scent is cooking patterns and the differences between the 20 regions of Italy. The word this week was capra (goat).

All 20 regions have recipes. Abruzzo is the most generous, providing seven in total. Three braises – with herbs, tomatoes and sweet-and-sour onions – two roasts, and two brodettati; that is, braised and then given a silky finish with egg yolks and lemon. Among Sicily’s six recipes, there is one for young goat cooked with tomato, potatoes and olives, and finished with cheese; another for a stew with ground and sliced almonds. The Sardinian edition also has six recipes. One for goat roasted with a breadcrumb and herb crust, another (for large festive occasions) that involves digging a hole, lining it with branches of myrtle and rosemary, and baking a goat whole.

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