Nigel Slater’s recipes for pork and kimchi stew, and sweet buns with labne and passion fruit

Pork stew with kimchi and sweet yeasted buns for exotic and unusual Easter treats

I could do with more fridge space. The shelf with yoghurt, skyr and kefir is now cluttered with ferments from kombucha to kimchi. Right now, there are two jars of the latter, a milder “wimp’s” version and a deep rust-red batch so hot your eyes water when you remove the lid. Both get my vote. There are two pots of different sauerkrauts, one fine and very juicy (good for sausages) and another coarse and spotted with juniper berries. There is a bottle of Willy’s drinking vinegar that I dilute with warm water. Refreshing and curiously uplifting, it’s like being woken from a deep slumber by a swift kick in the ribs and I love it.

I find some of the books on fermented foods too complex for my needs. Which is why I leapt upon Of Cabbages and Kimchi by James Read (Particular Books, £22), one of the most user-friendly books out there. I have made his kimchi stew twice now and will again for Easter. Imagine boned pork belly left to bake in a slow oven with Shaoxing wine, honey, miso and ginger, and with kimchi and tofu stirred in. It is hearty, sumptuous and deeply satisfying.

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