Nigel Slater’s recipes for spring greens, and smoked trout with fennel and onions

Step boldly into spring with these sharp, bright salads

Change is in the air. The long table at the greengrocer’s – a scene of never-ending inspiration – has swapped its warm ochre and crimson tones for a leafy fizz of green. Sprouting broccoli, spring greens and early wild garlic have replaced the beetroot, parsnips and swedes. There are pale curling fronds of frisée and plump bunches of breakfast radishes – shopping once again has a spring in its step.

I have enjoyed this good, long winter with its slow-cooked bean stews and sugar-dusted baking days, but have also been longing for the first days of spring. I want nothing more than to snap crisp stalks and tear up green leaves, tossing them in a pan with a punch of ginger and chilli and a spritz of lime. I want to shred pale, crackling salad and toss it with citrus and green herbs and dress it with tart little pickles. And now I can.

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