Nigel Slater’s recipes for yoghurt, wheat, spinach and lentil soup, and for beetroot, orange and yoghurt salad

Yoghurt is the magic ingredient, bringing harmony to a hearty soup and crisp zingy salad

I have started my day with yoghurt, the sharper the better, for as long as I can remember. It may be a tiny dish of pure white curds eaten with a teaspoon or, as it is now at the tail end of winter – in a deep bowl with sliced blood oranges, clusters of jewel-like pomegranate, passionfruit, chia seeds and toasted oats. More often than not, I end it that way, too, with a spoon or two before I climb the stairs to bed. In this house, a day without yoghurt is pretty much unthinkable.

In the kitchen, I prefer the thinner, unstrained version rather than those that are thick and creamy, which can sometimes lack the necessary refreshing snap of acidity. Here, yoghurt may find itself used as a salad dressing; tipped into a sieve, salted and drained to produce homemade labne; or stirred into a lentil soup or chicken casserole. A last-minute fizz of acidity to liven up a recipe or simply to introduce a little harmony and balance to a dish.

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