Nigel Slater’s recipes for cream of onion soup, and clementine and lemon tarts

A golden onion soup and a luxurious couscous dish to warm the soul in the bleak midwinter

I usually take my time cooking onions, leaving them to do their thing in oil or butter until they are soft and golden. Not a task to hurry if you want them truly sweet and amber-hued. This week I needed to cook them differently – soft enough to crush between finger and thumb, but not browned – for a pale and calming soup to enjoy on a cold day.

I sliced the onions and added them to the pan with celery and leafy twigs of thyme and bay. The heat was kept at a moderate level and the onions and aromatics puttered away quietly, cooking at a whisper rather than a sizzle. They were stirred every 5 minutes or so, their edges taking on the palest yellow colour without a hint of brown. The strong onion notes were softened further with a little cream, then given a smoky note with speck, torn into thick ribbons to dunk into the ivory depths of the soup.

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