Nigel Slater’s recipes for breakfast muffins, and kipper cakes with dill sauce

Oven-fresh treats for a breakfast to linger over

Few things galvanise the appetite quite like a pre-breakfast walk on a winter’s morning. Returning home, newspaper and loaf of bread in hand, it is then that the hob is lit, the coffee is on and the kitchen table becomes the best place in the world. If there are guests around, there will be something more than a bacon sandwich on our plates. Sometimes, there may be the plump little fish cakes I made this week. Crisp golden cushions of smoked fish and mashed potato, good for breakfast or supper, eaten with a jar of zappy pickles on the side.

The recipe is useful in that you can make it the day before, patting the cakes into rounds and leaving them in the fridge overnight. I use prepared fillets to save the pernickety task of tugging out the fine bones that lurk down each side of a whole kipper. Time is saved, but I rather miss not seeing the shimmering gold, silver and black of the splendid, opened-out smoked fish.

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