Devils and angels on horseback: the art of the oddly named canape

The rumour and intrigue around strange dish names is perfect dinner party fodder, and has provided inspiration for a pair of culinary performance artists

What were once markers of sophistication, devils on horseback have fallen out of favour. But the evocatively named dish of toothpick-skewered, bacon-wrapped prunes has a history stretching back to the 19th century. Variations exist in France, England and the US, from spiced oysters in place of fruit – angels on horseback; to pastry-wrapped wieners – little pigs in blankets.

The canape’s convoluted history is told in Devils on Horseback: A Global Etymology of Oddly Named Dishes. Published by the Melbourne-based duo Long Prawn – who stage culinary events and write cookbooks together – the recipe book dives into the history and hearsay underpinning curiously named dishes from across the globe.

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