Rachel Roddy’s recipe for fettuccine with chicken liver and mushroom ragu | A kitchen in Rome

A rich, deep sauce that’s a perfect match for ribbon pasta

Sometimes, on a Saturday morning, we drive to Gatti & Antonelli. It is one of Rome’s numerous pasta all’uovo (fresh egg pasta) shops, and it is certainly one of the best. It’s a handsome space, with a long, marble counter, a window on to the back workshop, bright yellow signs with timings and prices, and two shelves that display eggs and a large collection of small ornamental chickens. When my son was small, it was one of the few occasions I didn’t mind his shouting, because he voiced what I felt: “Chickens! Look at the chickens! Can I hold one?” This scene reminded me of scenes from my own childhood: staring at the lines of ornaments at my grandma’s house and thinking they were treasures, then being allowed to hold a little elephant, which I squeezed so it brought me luck.

Decades beyond my squeezing and years on from my son’s shouting, we now choose which chicken we would hold – the one with the gold neck, or the white one that looks like an egg? – while we wait in line. Behind the marble counter, which is veined like cheese, two women in white coats and blue hairnets serve efficiently, lifting long and short pasta from shallow boxes into stiff paper trays – tortellini, agnolotti, ravioli, fettuccine, tonnarelli, pappardelle. The smell in Gatti is hopeful and sappy, like fresh sawdust and a clean baby. Many have come for the agnolotti ripieni di carne (agnolotti stuffed with meat) – the specialty of the house. I, however, have come for fettuccine.

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