Nigel Slater’s recipes for roast tomatoes with chickpea mash, and orange and poppy seed cake

Dark evenings call for quick thinking in the kitchen

There was the most wonderful storm the other night, no doubt the first of many, with rain lashing the kitchen roof-lights and wind rattling the door. A proper thunder and lightning job with gusts so fierce they knocked the leaves off the fig tree. Leaves that now lie as deep as a snowdrift. The sort of weather that called for a supper of bright, heartening food.

A mound of herb mash with roasted vegetables was not what I intended to bring to the table, but the weather dictated otherwise. An about-turn from the autumnal tomato and chickpea salad I had planned. This sort of quick thinking is necessary when the weather changes at the drop of a woolly hat. The planned salad of brown lentils and ham may now become a bolstering cold-weather soup-stew and the mozzarella and aubergine can become melanzane alla parmigiana.

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