Nigel Slater’s recipes for chicken sautéed with olives and lemon, and with mushrooms, mustard and soured cream

Two hearty chicken stews for a warming autumn treat

Brown meat or white? I sit on the fence liking both equally, though in different ways. In a chicken sandwich, with lemon mayonnaise, chirpy watercress and soft peppery basil leaves, I prefer thin slices from the breast (which I also spread with a fine wave of yuzu kosho). But it is the brown meat – the thighs, drumsticks and juicy little oysters hiding in the undercarriage – that I use for pies, sautés and the endless baked chicken-thigh dinners that come from this kitchen on an almost weekly basis.

Sometimes the recipe itself decrees the cut that is most suitable. A slowly simmered stew will turn chicken breasts to rags, but reduce even the toughest of hard-worked thigh meat to silk. A gentle sauce made with white wine, cream and tarragon is impossible to beat with the pale flesh from the breast, especially when left in the hands of a French cook.

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