Nigel Slater’s recipes for baked aubergine with white beans and thyme, and banana brioche pudding
There has been a slight change of step in the kitchen. The jars of beans have come down from the top shelf to bake with aubergines and onions; the oven is on again (albeit less often than last autumn) and what I cook is as much about warming up a chilly evening as about the love of cooking. There has been a show of hot puddings, too: crumbles and crisps made with autumn fruit; a proper apple pie with a shortcrust pastry crust glistening with sugar and the first bread and butter pudding of the season.
If I was only allowed one season in the kitchen it would be this. Every meal still has fruit and vegetables at its heart, but there is a substantiality to the suppers that is missing in the summer. We are a long way from lentil pies and treacle-smeared steamed puddings, but also from the “substantial salads” that have occupied my time for the past few months. Deep autumn – the mounds of dried leaves, the occasional rain sodden day, the smell of bonfires in the gardens – brings with it a hankering for a few more carbs, be it beans, rice or bread.
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