Rachel Roddy’s recipe for sweet-and-sour grilled vegetables | A kitchen in Rome

A late lunch in Messina inspires this sweet-and-sour dish of griddled courgette and aubergine

The Strait of Messina is always busy – especially in July. Ferry boats – some carrying cars and lorries, others deconstructed trains – go back and forth between Villa San Giovanni in Calabria and the port of Messina, 168 times a day, apparently, if you count all the different companies. We tell the same story every time we make the 7km journey: that Vincenzo’s grandmother, Lilla, once swam the strait. Although, if that is true, and we hope it is, she probably crossed the narrowest point, between Capo Peloro and Cannitello, which is still 3.2km and a bottleneck of strong tides and whirlpools. We also talk about the greatest suspension bridge never built and what we should have for lunch.

Greek colonists named the city of Messina Ζάγκλη, or Zankle, because its natural harbour is shaped like a scythe. It does feel like sailing into an embrace and is a good way to arrive in Sicily. The harbour is also a way of keeping your bearings §in the city. Lose the smell of the sea, and you may get lost on your way to lunch.

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