Rachel Roddy’s recipe for meringata, AKA meringue with cream, fruit and toasted almonds | A kitchen in Rome

An unapologetically old-fashioned meringue sandwich ‘cake’ filled with fruit, nuts and cream

We used to pass the via Acaia branch of the San Crispino gelateria when we drove back from the airport. So I associate it with delays, and with ice-cream to make up for lost luggage.

Cool and with no frills, there was more counter than shop, and the gelati were protected by silver lids. Lids imply confidence– that it is so sure about what it does that it doesn’t need to pile it up and show it off. San Crispino divides its gelati into three groups: creams, which are custard-based; pure fruit sorbetti; and gelati with meringues, which have brittle bits. Many people seem to agree that, in the late 1980s , with its techniques, rigour and attention to ingredients, San Crispino changed gelato in Rome. Also that it remains excellent.

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