Claudia Roden’s recipe for chicken soup

This classic, comforting soup is at the heart of any traditional Jewish meal

An old Jewish joke my brother Zaki used to tell when we were schoolchildren in Paris is still around. A man calls a waiter in a restaurant and says, “I’m not happy.” The waiter asks, “What’s the matter?” The man replies, “You tell me!” The waiter asks, “Is the soup cold?” The man replies, “No!” The waiter asks, “Would you like some salt and pepper?” The man replies, “No!” The waiter says, “You always have this soup and it’s always the same.” The man says, “Taste it.” The waiter asks, “Where’s the spoon?” The man says, “Aha!”

It is often said that no traditional Jewish meal is complete without soup and, indeed, many a thick, hearty soup is a meal in itself. The most famous is chicken soup, which has a variety of accompaniments.

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