Claudia Roden’s recipe for birds’ tongues – lissan al assfour

An Egyptian lamb stew made using Italian orzo pasta

This is a lamb stew made with pasta, and I was assured that it only tastes right if small Italian pastine that look like tiny birds’ tongues are used. We knew them as graniamo in Egypt but they are the orzo we have today. In Egypt during the last war, when this Italian import was not available, families who loved the dish used to make the pasta themselves with flour and water, rolling it into the correct, tiny thin ovals between their fingers.

A friend recalls spending hours with her brother every Sunday as a small child, rolling the little bits of dough.

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