Nigel Slater’s recipes for pork, miso and marrow, and walnut and fig cake

A memorable meal from the much maligned marrow. Plus, a delicious seasonal cale

Should we get rid of the marrow? I am not entirely sure what possessed me to bring it home, perhaps a fit of nostalgia for the harvest festival where the least-loved squash and its pale green and cream stripes would sit among bunches of carnival-coloured dahlias on the church’s stone windowsill. Whatever the reason, it is still in the fridge and beginning to haunt me.

I am less ambivalent than most about the last of the green-fleshed summer squash. The flesh sponges up garlic, herbs and pan juices deliciously and when left to fry until golden, the edges will (eventually) caramelise sweetly enough. They are cheap – I bought mine for less than £1 – and all too often appear in the weekly late-summer vegetable delivery box. Even peeled and seeded there is a lot of flesh in a 1kg marrow. I found it likes miso, too. I will get a couple of good dinners out of mine, the first with minced pork, the second as a gratin, under a nostalgic blanket of parmesan-crusted cheese sauce.

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