Nigel Slater’s recipes for baked courgettes with lemongrass, plus mushrooms, courgettes and toasted crumbs

Courgettes in season are cheap, easy to cook and completely dependable

If you grow your own courgettes, you have the opportunity to pick them small – barely thicker than your index finger – and eat them raw. You can slice them thinly into tiny coins and marinate them with olive oil, lemon juice and basil leaves for an effortless salad. Picked in this diminutive state, their flesh is sweet and waxy, their skin thin and pale. A quiet and elegant late summer dish.

As they get larger, I like to sauté my courgettes with the fat from pancetta or streaky bacon, then sprinkle them with white wine vinegar and whole parsley leaves. You can shave a large courgette into ribbons with a vegetable peeler and brand it on the griddle then dress with chopped anchovies, olive oil and finely chopped and seeded tomatoes. I like the grilled ribbons marinated in salsa verde, too, with jagged pieces of bread to mop up the sloppy, garlicky dressing.

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