Nigel Slater’s recipes for ricotta cake, and for roast tomatoes with thyme and garlic toasts

Ricotta brings a gentle touch to cakes and summer lunch

Cool, milky and calm, fresh ricotta is the perfect cheese for a summer afternoon. Chalk white and soft as snow, it is the mildest of the fresh cheeses. Made from whey, it is not quite milk, not quite cheese. The sort you can buy in tubs from the supermarkets will be rather firm, but the best is the softest and freshest that you can find in Italian grocers and specialist cheese shops. It will usually come with tiny indentations from the mould in which it was originally shaped.

You can use ricotta to fill a sponge cake – a much lighter and less sweet addition than buttercream. I thicken the filling with mascarpone, so it holds its shape, but also fold in a little whipped cream to introduce a silky texture. Orange and lemon zest is good as a flavouring in summer, especially if you are serving it with seasonal berries, as are a few drops of vanilla extract or the tiniest drop of orange flower water.

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