Red fish curry, tomato rasam, prawn curry – Sri Lankan recipes

A celebration of the island nation’s food with dishes from Rambutan, the new cookbook by economist turned restaurateur Cynthia Shanmugalingam

Growing up in Coventry in the 1980s and 90s, Cynthia Shanmugalingam recalls being faintly embarrassed by Sri Lankan food. She has a vivid memory of her friend Amy coming over to her house when they were 15. As usual, Shanmugalingam’s mum set up Amy and Cynthia in one room, eating fish and chips, while in another room the rest of the family had a selection of curries and rice.

“I don’t know why we did that,” Shanmugalingam says. “It’s not like somebody said our food was disgusting or anything, but maybe it was an inherited perception. Anyway, Amy said, ‘Can I have what you’re having in there?’ And I was like, ‘Don’t ruin the chips! It’s the only time I’m allowed to eat them.’ I remember my parents saying to Amy, ‘I don’t think you’ll like it.’ But she said, ‘Can I just try it?’ She thought it was delicious. That was a turning point for me.”

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