Rachel Roddy’s recipe for cauliflower and potato bake | A kitchen in Rome

An easy-going, reliable Roman recipe that’s a cross between cauliflower cheese and potato gratin

In 1961, there were 10 porters working at Testaccio market. Known as facchini, these men and boys were the moving muscles of the market, transporting both the stall structures, which were still unfixed, and fruit and vegetables from warehouses near Monte Testaccio to the market square. Once the market and stalls were set up, it was the work of i facchini to ferry produce from the market to the dozens of trattorie, osterie, pizzerie and tavole calde in Testaccio and beyond.

In 1961, Silvio started working alongside his brother. He was 11. Their parents were longstanding vendors; at first, they had a fruit and vegetable stall, then, after the war, a grocery stall. The boys were born into the market universe; everyone knew them and they knew everyone, every bolt and corner, every trattoria kitchen door. It would be a few years before Silvio was considered a facchino, although from the first day he worked as hard as anyone else, proud of his memory, strength and ability to manoeuvre a trolley.

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