How to make the perfect pasta ai funghi – recipe | Felicity Cloake's The perfect …

Which mushrooms give the biggest umami hit? Which herbs and spices work best? The classic Italian sauce gets the onceover from our resident perfectionist

The Italians are a nation of mycophiles, pouring into woods and forests in their thousands each autumn on the hunt for chiodini, gallinacci and, most prized of all, porcini, to saute, preserve or, as here, turn into a richly flavoured sauce. As well as having an earthy character that comes from a life spent largely underground, mushrooms are high in monosodium glutamate, the same thing that gives parmesan and ripe tomatoes their intensely savoury quality, which makes them an ideal base for a meat-free ragu. But do you need to be out foraging at dawn for the best results, or can you achieve fungi nirvana with supermarket produce?

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