Nigel Slater’s recipes for tomatoes and anchovy, and with new potatoes

Lucky enough to have home-grown tomatoes? Give them a starring role

The fruit was slow to form at first: a single green teardrop. Then another and then, as the weedy yellow flowers finished, an entire cluster. Within a month, and lapping up their fortnightly seaweed feed, my tomatoes were the size of plums.

The pots stagger down the stone steps. Tucked between them are chipped terracotta tubs of marigolds, thyme and fennel. Nasturtiums are welcome squatters among the tomato vine; an attempt to usher away the black fly. This year’s see-saw of scorching heat and blessed rain has been a much-needed source of nourishment for a kitchen-step garden.

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