Roasted stone fruits | Nigel Slater

Under-ripe peaches and nectarines will sweetly yield to heat, then pair perfectly with chicken salad or cheese

Even if you can find a ripe peach for sale, it is almost impossible to get it home without a bruise. I tend to buy my stone fruits on the firm side and ripen them in the spot I also use for mangoes and pears, turning them daily, until they are yielding and fragrant. Home-ripening doesn’t always work, with some fruit refusing to respond, spurning your attempts at love and nurture like a sulky teenager.

Peaches or nectarines are a rather good addition to a summer chicken salad, especially if you add the juice of a lemon to the dressing and maybe a slice or two of gherkin or green olives. I did just that earlier in the week, using the sticky “toffee” that had gathered under the roasting chicken to form the heart and soul of the dressing, sharpening the caramelised juices with lemon and vinegar, then tossing it with the still-warm chicken and chilled, ripe fruit.

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