Rachel Roddy’s recipe for tonnato sauce | A Kitchen in Rome

This creamy tuna and anchovy mayonnaise from northern Italy suits meats, hard-boiled eggs and buttery lettuce, but is superb over tomatoes

Anna, Jane, Elizabeth, Madhur, Alastair, Colin, Delia, Nigel, Mary, Simon, Nigella, Sophie, Josceline, the Ladies of the Yorkshire WI: when I return to my parents’ house, coming back to Mum’s cookbooks is like walking into a room of incredibly familiar people, all of whom look a bit odd, older and, in a few cases, fallen apart.

This wasn’t always the way; these were the books I grew up with, as familiar as the plates we still eat off. I was raised with Jane and Josceline wide open on the counter and providing good advice and good meals in the best and worst of times. These were the books I stared at wondering why there were not more photos, that showed me how to write about food long before I ever thought of doing it. When I left home, swearing that I would do everything differently, I bought myself copies of pretty much every book on Mum’s shelves. But they were later editions, often with different covers and indexes, which have received different folds and strains. So when I go back, Mum’s copies, with their broken spines and different traces of sauce, seem both familiar and odd, a bit like home itself when the adult child returns.

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