Rachel Roddy’s recipe for cannoli | A Kitchen in Rome

The perennial Sicilian favourite confection, the recipe straight from the kitchen of one of the masters of the art

After two disappointments, it was a relief to arrive in Comiso, south-west Sicily, to find that Cantunéra had not closed or been renovated beyond recognition since our last visit two summers ago. Parking has not changed either; it is tricky in the meandering centre. Then, when you do find a spot, it is often so awkward that getting into it is like trying to lever a hot foot into an undersized shoe. Eventually we park by the Aragonese castle and walk back towards the main square of the town before turning right into Via Giuseppe Di Vita and the reason we have come here: dinner.

I have written about Sandro Pace before; his progress from 11-year-old bar boy (to keep him out of trouble) to 17-year-old owner of bar Corallo; his training as a pastry chef in Ragusa then return to Comiso to open Cantunéra. I have written about his exceptional arancine, but this time I have come for cannoli.

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