Nigel Slater’s baked blueberry cheesecake and devilled crab recipes

Two cream-based delights for late summer lunches, one savoury, one sweet

Take the lid from a pot of cream and it smells of a summer’s day, of cool shade and long grass. Cream, the real thing, is thick, fatty and pale yellow with a faint sharpness to it, and slides lazily from its tub. This long summer has seen cream in my kitchen for a brick-coloured crab soup and a hot shellfish pâté to spoon on to pieces of toast. It has been beaten with mustard and snipped dill for an impromptu sauce for salmon. There has been cream in which we melted thin slices of camembert for a sauce for steamed courgettes. And there has been cream with sautéed cucumber and courgettes, for wild mushrooms, and swirled languidly into a dish of baked Victoria plums warm from the oven.

Cream of any hue is not a regular visitor to my kitchen. It is more a rare and gorgeous treat

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