Nigel Slater’s grilled sausages and herbed chickpea mash recipe

A refreshing summer take on bangers and mash

Sausages have always been my quick fix. The little pink digits in tomato sauce my dad would leave in the Aga for when I came home from school; my local butcher’s joyously plump breakfast sausages, stuffed into a soft mustard-splattered bap; the coarse-grained chorizo I split open like a book and allow to singe on the grill on summer nights. Breakfast sausage, or those fat Italian porkers with fennel seeds and black pepper, often make it to the dinner table, flanked by piles of sweet potato mash, their skins glossy and sticky as Marmite.

They might be cooked over charcoal in the back garden, or slowly burnished in a pan over a low heat, each one turned regularly, watched over as a cat might keep an eye on a nest of slowly fattening fledglings.

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