Nigel Slater’s chilled desserts for summer

Skip pudding and have these iced treats as a cool surprise

However dear I hold dessert, it is rarely on my mind as Sunday lunch draws to a close. I usually quit after the main dish and grab a piece of cheese, a square of thin, dark chocolate or a peach. More fun, I think, is to wait a couple of hours then bring out something sweet, when it will get the attention it deserves. On a roasting summer’s afternoon this could be ice-cream held prisoner between two homemade wafers or soft, sugar-dusted cookies; halves of apricots filled with sweetened ricotta; or a little tart filled with cloud of lemon mousse.

When the sun is at its height, I might sandwich lemon water ice between a pair of slim shortbreads

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