How to cook the perfect laksa – recipe | Felicity Cloake

There are as many recipes for laksa as there are cooks who make this fragrant Asian soup, but we’ve run the rule over a few and come up with our own definitive take

There’s a restaurant just off Oxford Street in London, called Laksamania, whose name sums up the correct response to this aromatic noodle soup, the national dish of both Malaysia and Singapore, found from Thailand to Indonesia, and deeply comforting whether you’re in Kuala Lumpur or Kings Langley. Yet, as MiMi Aye notes in her book Noodle!, “There seem to be as many variations … as there are stars in the sky”, thanks to the migration of the Peranakan people from China throughout the Malay archipelago.

By far the best known in this country, however, is probably laksa lemak, sometimes called curry or nyonya laksa, which I first fell in love with in a black and-white bungalow in Singapore on a day when the humidity topped 90%. Rich with coconut milk and salty with shrimp, with a pinch of hot chilli on top, it’s as good on a hot summer’s afternoon as it is in the depths of winter, and not half as much work as it looks, I promise.

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